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putthison:

Q and Answer: How Do I Fold My Pocket Square

John from Iowa writes: So I have a pocket square. How do I wear it?

Let me start here: you’re probably over thinking it. The pocket square isn’t meant to look fussed-over. It’s meant to look like you haven’t thought about it (even if you have).

There are a couple of ways to wear a square.

Generally, the poof is your best bet. Simply pinch the square in the middle and lift. Fold the bottom up so that the whole thing’s the appropriate depth to fit in your pocket without too much creeping, and let a little bit of the top floof out. On larger squares you can gather a few concentric points around the center of the square (say two inches from center) and draw them up rather than the center. This will give you a more dynamic look.

The opposite move is also acceptable. Gather the corners and lift, then fold up the bottom a bit, and let the tips peek out the top of the pocket.

A combo of those two is also fine with a large enough square - gather the square, then fold it in half, so that the corners and the center are touching. A bit of both.

The only real “fold” I’d advocate is the TV fold. Simply fold your square into a rectangle so the edge pokes just outside the pocket. This is suitable for serious, sober occasions and is best done with a plain white linen handkerchief.

No matter how you fold it, you’ll probably have to fuss with your square a bit during the day. Just remember: it should always look like you shoved it into your pocket absentmindedly because you’re just that relaxed and cool.

A thorough, but concise, rundown on the textures of solid ties:

putthison:

Nine Solid Ties & How to Wear Them

For the elegantly dressed man, a solid necktie can be an elegant way to ground a complex shirt, jacket, or both. Solid neckties are a playground for a too-often ignored element of men’s style: texture. There are many styles, so I thought I’d give you a rundown on ten of the most popular.

Follow along in the photos above: left to right, top to bottom. Click to enlarge.

1. Twill. This is perhaps the most popular form of solid tie. It gets its texture from a weave common in many ties. It’s characterized by a pronounced series of diagonal ribs - like the texture of denim. Look for a twill with a distinct and pronounced texture for maximum impact.
2. Grenadine. The grenadine tie is a complex weave which creates a beautiful variegated texture. There are two types - garza grossa and garza fina. If your Italian’s up to snuff, you know that simply means large weave and fine weave. The grenadine is one of the most versatile neckties you can own - the solid color makes it easy to wear, the texture gives it visual interest.
3. Basketweave. The basketweave sold tie is usually easily found as well. It uses a weave similar to an oxford shirt. Sometimes, as in an oxford shirt, it features two colors, as in the example above, which features navy and midnight blue. Style aficionados generally prefer the grenadine, which simply has a more dynamic, interesting texture.
4. Satin. Satin ties have a hard, shiny finish which make them perfect for evening wear. It contrasts well with softer wools, like flannels. That shininess can make them appear cheap in the harsh light of day, though. They’re also tainted by what you might call the Regis Factor - their association with the late 90s trend of matching solid satin tie to colored shirt. Still, a black or navy satin tie can add a luxurious touch to nighttime dress.
5. Tussah, Shantung, Raw & Textured Silks. This group of ties features a nubbly, uneven surface. This isn’t achieved through a particular weave, but rather through texture in the fibers being woven. There are a variety of regional variations on this same idea which all go by different names. Because of their rough surface, they lend a more casual air, and their texture contrasts pleasantly with both hard and soft-finished jackets. Like the grenadine, they’ve long been a go-to for the very stylish, but even more than the grenadine, they can be tough to find.
6. Knits. Often grenadine ties in particularly are confused with knits, but they’re two different beasts. I’m not a textile engineer, but knitting and weaving are very different processes. Suffice it to say that knitting involves looping a single thread, and weaving involves crossing a piece of thread over and other many others. Knit ties are typically unlined, and have a soft, springy hand and usually a square bottom. (That’s because it’s tough to knit a triangle.) Knits are very casual, and are a great pairing with sportcoats. Their popularity has tracked with traditional American “Ivy” style - with heydays in the 1960s, 1980s and today.
7. Jacquard. Beginning in the 19th century, automated looms could generate complex patterns in their weaving. Today, computerized looms can do just about everything, and they sometimes do. Jacquard ties feature patterns or graphics woven into the tie, usually with contrasting satin and matte threads. As with solid satin ties, they’re best left for the evening. They can be quite lovely, but be careful - you run the risk of looking like a sofa.
8. Linen. Like raw silk, linen ties feature the fabric’s natural nubby texture. They’re a wonderful compliment to complex summer jacketings. They’re seasonal, though, so keep them in the warm-weather months. Like knits, they’re also relatively casual.
9. Wool. We’re big boosters of wool ties in the winter months, when their texture reflects the coziness you desire in the cold. Like linen, they’re very seasonal. Also like linen, they’re relatively informal, though not quite to the same extent.

We often preach the gospel of simplicity here at Put This On, and solid ties are a wonderful means to that end. By trading pattern for texture, you can achieve stunning results - the understated elegance all men should be shooting for in their dress.